by Rupak Risal

BEYOND THE CLOUDS, playing at theatres near you is the story set in Nubri valley that lies to the North of Mt. Manaslu, one of the highest mountains in the world. After the earthquake of 2015, Nubri valley with around 12,000 people is cut from the rest of the world by landslides. This docudrama tells the story of Raj, Shiva, Sukh Bahadur and ChhewangDorje, brought together by fate. They unintentionally end up helping the valley residents make it through the near approaching winter, while making their own ends meet.

Director Eric Valli, widely known for HONEY HUNTERS and CARAVAN is the best friend and admirer of Nepal. No one has ever dished out Nepal’s beauty through cinema to the rest of the world better than him. He has proven that through BEYOND THE CLOUDS once again. The cinema crew follows the porters and mule herders carrying goods in the Manaslu circuit, even crosses the infamous Larkya pass on multiple occasions and showcases the hardship of lives around the Manaslu region. A huge round of applause goes to Valli for putting a team together and literally walking along with the characters on location.

A huge round of applause goes to Valli for putting a team together and literally walking along with the characters on location.

The movie is successful in capturing stunning visuals of Manaslu circuit. Characters show real emotions when they are being interviewed. The movie depicts lives full of hardship in one of the most rigorous terrains in the world. Cinematographer Bishnu Kalpit has done a very commendable job in capturing the beauty of the Himalayas and its rugged landscapes. Background score is another strong aspect of the movie. It helps give more sense of reality on multiple occasions as well as being enjoyable to listen to.

However, the film gets occasionally lost in itself and turns into a slice of life in the Himalayas that started as a post-earthquake hardship docudrama. I am sure Eric meant it to be the latter as he ends the film in that note. However, a huge chunk of the movie in the middle wanders off towards showcasing Chhewang Dorje’s life and his philosophical dilemma, which is sure to distract the audience from the theme of earthquake and recovery. Characters seem really animated on scores of occasions and just ham through the entire scenes. Eric was successful in extracting much better performances from real life characters in CARAVAN. A large part of the narration sounds too loud to the viewers, perhaps subtitles could do much better a job.

If viewers can take one of the characters’ decision on not to go abroad at the end as a mere reenactment, the movie can also excuse itself from being preachy.

BEYOND THE CLOUDS ends on a note that life in the Manaslu region has worsened because of the earthquake. People do not have resources available to reconstruct their houses within the country so they are thinking of going abroad. However, because of the earthquake people have begun to realize the importance of unity. The now come to help for each other and have started sharing ideas on recovery process. If viewers can take one of the characters’ decision on not to go abroad at the end as a mere reenactment, the movie can also excuse itself from being preachy.

Trekkers, adventurers and mountain lovers will enjoy the movie for its sheer visual excellence.

Director : Eric Valli
Camera : Bishnu Prasad Ghimire
First published in : moviemandu.com

by Ram Chhetri

The Himalayas are regarded as sacred power places on earth. They are revered for their spiritual benefits and this translates, literally, into the “Abode of the gods!” There is a spirituality and wonderment in these peaks that haunts the insignificance of mankind. There is something magical and wonderful about the Himalayas!.

The early morning was crisp and clear. A few clouds scudded across the blue sky. I had checked in with the helicopter crew and was told it would be a few minutes. This time gave the crew a chance to check the weight and other items before we departed. As we approached the landing strip at Lukla, it suddenly struck me just how busy the small airfield was in the early morning hours. Planes and helicopters appeared to vie with one another for a space, both on the ground and in the air. Morning was the best time to fly into Lukla and I quickly realized the need for a cut off time to fly the 40 minutes from Kathmandu to Lukla. I wanted to try, this time, to see the grandeur of the Himalayas on a crisp, clear day.

Lukla Airport (Tenzing–Hillary Airport), built in 1964 considered among one of the dangerous airports in the world but I never felt that dangerous in my early days. A program titled The Most Extreme Airports, broadcast on the history channel in 2010, rated the most dangerous airports in the world for over 20 years. A gateway to Everest where most people start Everest Base Camp Trek. There regular flights To/From Kathmandu.

Lukla Airport (Tenzing–Hillary Airport), built in 1964 considered among one of the dangerous airports in the world but I never felt that dangerous in my early days. A program titled The Most Extreme Airports, broadcast on the history channel in 2010, rated the most dangerous airports in the world for over 20 years. A gateway to Everest where most people start Everest Base Camp Trek. There regular flights To/From Kathmandu.

The mountains did not disappoint! After a 40 minute flight over many different villages, the helicopter landed at Lukla Airport in the Solu Khumbu region of Nepal. This region is considered the cradle of Sherpa culture, home to the legendary Sherpa people of Nepal. They are famed for their historic treks and climbs of many of the Himalaya’s highest peaks. They also accompany and lead many groups of climbers up the mountains, including the Mt. Everest! The ideal time to fly into Lukla is in the morning hours. It is at this time that the light and shadows are the most spectacular on the mountains! I walked up to the Lukla Airport office to visit my friend. He talked a great deal about the expansion of the airport, and an increase in the capacity of the airport to handle upwards of 400 passengers.

starrynight

His office is small, but cozy. A single window faces the runway with unexpected and stunning views of planes and choppers landing and taking off. From this vantage one can see all the flights landing and taking off. I sip a cup of tea, watched clouds moving over Konde – Ri, watched a pilot near the runway below, waving his hands, read his lips as he shouts, “Let’s go!”

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Generations of explorers have taken several weeks, or even months, to reach these heights! Although only 50 minutes from Kathmandu, one must achieve this location to overnight at 13,950 feet. This is an increase from 4,430 feet.

The next adventure would be to land at Kongde for an overnight. A beautiful experience! The weather in this region commands no respect. While landing, a moment ago, the deafening clatter of the helicopter blades made a similar sound as if there was an avalanche! We had arrived just below the Konde – Ri Summit. Now, I am having a cup of butter tea in a small room with a fireplace. I can only hear the chanting of Om Mane Padme Hum, a Buddhist chant in the background. For an hour, I absorbed all the energy of the world. I strolled around and waved at a monk who was burning fresh, dry juniper as incense on cones. It is believed that those juniper trees are the hairs of a Buddhist leader and if they cut live wood, dry it, they will face no illness or bad luck.

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The Himalayas are regarded as sacred power places on earth. They are revered for their spiritual benefits and this translates, literally, into the “Abode of the gods!”

Getting into Yeti Mountain Home, Kongde, requires 5 days trek through high alpine terrain, Sherpa villages and Buddhist shrines, streams, waterfalls, wild goat and sheep.

I suddenly felt the temperature swiftly drop and ghostly mists rose from Phakding and Namche, villages hidden by the rising mists. My breath grew shallow, pressure in my head increased and the altitude popped my ears! I ended up in a hall with a glass of thick, garlic tea – garlic it is believed to help thin the blood and enhance the flow throughout the body. At this point I did a quick body scan: I shook my head – no headache; I checked my stomach – no nausea; My respiration was smooth and deep now.

The wind, outside, suddenly stopped as if someone had hit a switch and all fell silent. Mt. Ama Dablam removed her veil of clouds and flashed an expansive smile of pure snow, rock and ice. Mt. Everest, with its symmetrical shape was mesmerizing. The whole new vista opened up, causing me to scream or in the excitement lose my dinner. I was without a thought and completely speechless for the longest time.

The Himalayas are regarded as sacred power places on earth. They are revered for their spiritual benefits and this translates, literally, into the “Abode of the gods!” There is a spirituality and wonderment in these peaks that haunts the insignificance of mankind. There is something magical and wonderful about the Himalayas!

My respiration remained rapid and my heart boomed a techno beat in my chest. Yet, I feel calm, content, and blessed to be here at all. Because of this wonderful environment, I truly discovered myself. There was something truly magical and wonderfully intangible about this place. A feeling that I know goes back thousands of years to the very first men who stood in this vastness that is the Himalayas.

Breakfast with gods in heaven

I awoke the next morning to the quiet stillness that seems to pervade these mountains. The tranquility of the dawn, the challenge of a new day, and the promise of so many new and magical experiences that await you. It is an awesome feeling to see the guardians of the Himalayas from this vantage point. There are four of the tallest mountains in the world and they have been labeled the guardians of the Himalayas! Mt. Everest, 8,848m/29,029 ft., Mt. Lhotse, 8,516 m/27,940 ft., Mt. Makalu, 8,481m/27,838 ft., & Mt. Cho Oyu, 8,201m/26,906 ft.. All of these Make you feel supremely happy. Mt. Everest is glowing with its eternal reflection and its radiance. Mt. Ama Dablam, dominates the skyline with its colossal body covered with sparkling, white snow which only increases its beauty and majesty.

As the magnificent sunrise began, the Khumbu Valley is bathed in a golden halo.  My spirits soar as I gaze heavenward in a silent rapture.

Flying over Everest Base Camp and Kalapathar

The sound of a helicopter shatters the morning stillness.  Rising up from the valley below, it signals an end to our enchanting and mystical rendezvous with these spectacular mountains. There is little time to think on the experience, yet I know that I will think back on all of this as I return to the modern world.

The next stop is Kalapathar.  Here the helicopter does not turn off its rotors, but allows them to stay engaged. If the motor should die we would be stuck in this altitude, and cold.  The chopper would not be able to restart again because of the lack of oxygen and the extremely cold conditions.

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Namche Bazaar spread out below the chopper, was stunning. Syangboche, the Everest View Hotel and then the incredible Tengboche Monastery, Gorekshep, was a real eye-opener as Buddhist shrines, chortens, and Sherpa villages dotted the seemingly endless flow of this vivid, surreal landscape.

Mt. Pumori seems like it is a welcoming signal to every helicopter and passenger plane returning from the mountains. As Kalapather (5,550m), it was an awesome experience to land there, and although the chopper kept its engine running, the beauty and the silence seemed to quiet the noise.

A magical experience: yes! A mystical experience: yes! But I returned to the modern world refreshed and stimulated to join back totally refreshed to the modern world of today!

(Ram Chhetri is one of the prominent tour and trek agent and has been in this business for a long time. This blog is his personal experience of witnessing this heavenly place.)

Check out some of our latest blogs at https://www.filmcrewnepal.com/blog/

Know more about Everest at https://www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Everest

 

Ten places of interest in Nepal for all Cinematographers.

The Himalayas where “Moksha” is attained is mentioned by the great Indian scriptures. Sages and Fakirs have made epic journeys to the Nepal Himalayas in search of God and salvation. We do not know if the Himalayas provided them salvation, but the view of the landscape certainly does, even today. Since the ancient and medieval times, the far-flung wilds of Nepal have beckoned and bewitched travelers from across the globe.

From its glacial regions and grasslands to its mystical cities, this region continues to stun and humble all who visit. A tour of Nepal is recommended in any season as the terrain erupts in different colors. The Himalayan plants unfurl their vibrant petals and Rhododendrons stretch their limbs toward the sun. Trekking in Nepal too, is an otherworldly sensation. You can experience a magnificent mosaic of landscapes and cultures. It’s no wonder that Nepal is center point for those in pursuit of the ultimate nature experience.

Whether you’re contemplating on a trip, trek or just need a few moments to exhale wistfully. We have compiled a list of 10 reasons to pack your bags for Nepal so that your decision making becomes easy. Nepal tour or trek can be easy and difficult, leisurely and adventurous and can cater to any kind of traveler. Just pack wisely and prepare for anything. A great holiday experience awaits!

Kathmandu

The mystical streets, houses, temples and palaces that caught the imagination of Cat Stevens and Bob Seger—the labyrinthine alleys that lead to Freak Street, the ancient pilgrim paths of Patan, the soft hills surrounding on all sides—these are the stunning pictures that fill a trip to Nepal’s stunning capital. A trip to Kathmandu ranks high on most travelers’ lists because of its iconic attractions, art and architecture, a beautiful, moderate climate and classic fables.

Founded upon a large valley, it was once divided into three neighboring kingdoms; Patan, Bhaktapur and Kathmandu. The valley has 7 UNESCO world heritage sites and it is not possible to tour this city in just a few days. Whether you’re a history buff or not, it’s impossible not to be moved by the glorious palaces and temples around Kathmandu’s giant Durbar squares. But there is also a modern Kathmandu where you can find trendy bars, a notable nightlife and tourist and mountaineer hotspots.

The city is delightful to holiday in any season and the historic and tourist centers are walkable. You can get lost on the winding burnt bricked streets and you’ll easily discover hidden treasures around every corner.

Kathmandu

Pokhara

A cool thing about Pokhara- and perhaps a lesser known fact, is that the city is small enough that visitors can get a real feel for its people, its quiet towns, sights and secrets and know that it is the starting point of some of the finest trekking trails in Nepal. Most people who’ve never even been to Pokhara have at least heard about its lakes; Fewa and Begnas. They are certainly worth seeing, as you can rent a wooden boat and cruise along, all the while enjoying the views of the gigantic Machhapuchare Mountain and the Annapurna range hovering right above at a distance.

Pokhara is a six hour drive from Kathmandu or you can take a 30 minute flight. Pokhara is a city tied to the water – it grew around its lakes and a beautiful town sprung up by the lakeside. If you are a trekker or a leisure traveler, Pokhara offers many adventure activities like Paragliding, Ultralight flight or a Zip Line plunge.

You can also take short hikes from the city and visit other attractions that include a trip to the Mahendra Cave complex and the Japanese Peace Temple. Pokhara is the only city in the world where you can sit at a leisurely altitude of 800m at view 8000m mountains at a very short distance.

We have also talked about filming in pokhara in our blog : https://www.filmcrewnepal.com/filming-in-nepal/film-process/filming-in-pokhara-nepal/

Pokhara

Chitwan National Park

The Chitwan National park covers an area of 368 square miles and is home to some of the most endangered animals and birds on the planet. The park has a distinct appeal during spring and fall, giving you a rare chance to see the beauty of the forest from a different angle. Spring brings flowers and birds, fall allows for a moderate climate in an otherwise humid weather. Winter provides a misty, temperate climate ideal for a safari.

68 mammal species have been recorded at the park. The renowned Bengal Tiger and the One Horned Rhinoceros are the most prominent ones as they are found at very few forests in the planet. Other animals include Bengal Foxes, Leopards, Gaurs, Sambar Deer, Indian Porcupines, Golden Jackals, Fishing Cats, Indian Covets, Sloth Bears etc. A total of 543 bird species and 17 different kinds of reptiles have been recorded at the Park.

The best way to view the animals is a Jungle Safari on the back of an elephant. The park’s headquarters is Kasara which is close to the Gharial and Turtle conservation breeding centers which you can visit. Chitwan is a 5 hour drive away from Kathmandu.

Chitwan National Park

Everest Base Camp

Everest Base Camp is splendidly secluded, it’s rolling hills dotted with tiny villages, herds of yaks and mules and magnificent views of the Himalayan peaks mark the way across this mesmerizing realm. It is the most covered trekking trail in Nepal and it is the sacred path for trekkers and mountaineers. The Everest Base Camp is situated at 5,380 m and it takes about 9 days to reach there after you land at the Lukla airstrip. The best time for Everest Base Camp trek is during the spring (March-May) and in the fall (September-November).

The trek will take you along the beautiful Dudh Koshi river and up to the most alpine regions of Nepal as you cross some of the highest mountain passes in the world. The entire trail gives you glimpses of some of the many 8000m peaks up close. You can see mountain peaks like Everest, Thamserku, Ama Dablam and Lhotse among others.

Along the way, you can enjoy a warm welcome from friendly people and witness the authentic Sherpa culture as you meet local families, spend nights in cozy traditional lodges or tents. The Everest Base Camp trek requires planning and preparation but it is an adventure that will remain in your memory for the longest time.

Everest Base Camp

Annapurna

Rhododendron-draped alpine forest, impressive ridge-top views, eerie pathways, astonishing villages in the middle of nowhere—this is the hidden world of the Annapurna region, a place that was concealed from world for thousands of years until avid trekkers discovered the unruffled beauty of this exotic locale and began exploring it.

The Annapurna region located in the shadow of the massive Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges provides some of the most challenging trekking trails in the world. The most popular treks in this region are the Annapurna Circuit Trek, Annapurna Sanctuary Trek and the Annapurna Base Camp Trek. Most of these treks have well-defined trails, and within just a few days you will be able to see Nepal’s western Himalayas in full glory. There are also beautiful villages and settlements along the way.

Places like Jomsom and Kagbeni are wonderful places to rest and explore. Hindus and Buddhist also take pilgrimage tours to the temple of Muktinath (Lord of Salvation) in this region. Most of the treks begin from Nayapul or Birethanti. These places are about an hour’s distance from Pokhara. You can also take a flight to Jomsom which is the beginning of the coveted Annapurna Base Camp or simply ABC trek. The flight takes you about 35 minutes.

Annapurna

Upper Mustang

The enormous ice-covered peaks, fantastic arid high mountain wilderness, and towering alpine rugged landscape of Nepal’s Upper Mustang make it a phenomenal arena for trekking. In this stunning wilderness, you can see the last Tibetan kingdom set in a location that seems to be lost in time and locked amidst some of the most astounding views in the Himalayas. Set in the shadow of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, Mustang is a restricted zone and you will need a permit to trek in this region.

Upper Mustang is also known as Lo Manthang which translates to “Kingdom of Lo”. Similar in Geography to Tibet, the people of Mustang speak Nepali and Tibetan, follow Buddhism and still have a king! Situated at an altitude of 3730m, Upper Mustang can be reached in 6-7 days of trekking from Jomsom. The best time to visit Mustang is from March to November and since it falls in the rain shadow of the Annapurna Range, the monsoon doesn’t affect the area.

Lo Manthang has a sparse population and is famous for its walled city. Upper Mustang trek allows you to see many Buddhist Chortens and Monasteries all around and the region that is nestled in the backdrop of gigantic mountain peaks and the arid dry hills that bear an uncanny resemblance to Tibet is sheer delight to the senses.

Upper Mustang

Rara Lake

Enormous Lake Rara, the ethereal, freshwater lake of Nepalese legends, lies in an austerely beautiful setting, ringed by dramatic western Himalayan peaks. Rara is magnificent not just for its pristine waters and untouched surroundings but also for its location hidden within a vast canopy forest of pine and juniper and the massive Api and Saipal Mountains looming large over at a close distance.

Rara falls in Mugu District in Western Nepal and you will have to trek in order to get there. The trekking trail that leads to Rara Lake takes you across the Ghurchi Lagna Pass at 3450m and you will also encounter a lot of high altitude ridges and a lush forest that is home to some exotic animals and birds. You will have to fly or drive to Nepalgunj town in western Nepal first and make a 4 day hike to reach Rara Lake.

Once you reach there, you can relax by the banks of the lake (perhaps take a hammock) or visit the Murma view point which offers great views of the Himalayas. You can explore the environs around the lake, a conglomeration of beautiful wildflowers and hike around its hills for unforgettable top-of-the-world views of mountain tops.

Rara Lake

Lumbini

Lumbini—sometimes known as the birth place of Buddhist spirituality paints a rich historical and religious canvas, filled with remarkable serenity and a multitude of architectural wonders in the shape of monasteries and temples from the world over. This is the birth place of Gautama Buddha whose teaching gave birth to Buddhism.

From the kingdom of Kapilvastu, where the Sakya dynasty once held sway, to Tilaurokot where Mayadevi gave birth to Gautama, Lumbini is a vast spiritual place that leaves a mark on your memory. In order to reach Lumbini, you can take a 10 hour drive from Kathmandu or take a 1 hour flight to the Bhairawa airport from where a 30 minute drive will take you to Lumbini. At Lumbini, you can enjoy a full exploration of the place where attractions like the Maya Devi Temple, World Peace Pagoda and the Myanmar Golden Temple have been constructed in honor of the Buddha. Lumbini was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.

Many monuments, monasteries and a museum, and the Lumbini International Research Institute are also within the holy site. When you are there, do not miss the imposing Ashoka pillar built by Emperor Ashoka of India which bears an inscription that bears witness to the fact that it was indeed in Lumbini that “the blessed one” was born.

Lumbini

Dolpo

Getting to Dolpo is like a fantastic dream, an overflowing of cultural encounters and magical scenery come alive. It is a wonderland awaiting to be explored with its barren but decorated wooden villages. They are stocked with traditional moorings and the Himalayan mist of purity flavoring the air. The region has cultural inclinations to Tibet. It is situated in the Dolpa District of western Nepal sharing its borders with China. It is a part of the Shey Phoksundo national park.

Trekking the entire region in and around Dolpo could take more than 10 days but it is a fascinating experience. You can trek into inner Doplo through its untouched, untrodden valleys. You can make a visit to the venerable Shey Gompa which is also called the Crystal Monastery. Part of the allure of Dolpo is the pristine waters of the magnificent Shey Phoksundo Lake which is a feast for the senses. It is in the valleys and ridges, hamlets, hills and mountains of Dolpo that the sights and sounds of a holiday experience reside. The rawness of a destination, the unruffled charm of a culture and the tranquility of being in nature is what a Dolpo experience is all about.

Dolpo

Gosainkunda

Set in the Langtang National Park, north of the country, the Gosaikunda Lake is remote and undeniably spectacular. It is set in an ethereal landscape that has mountaintops adorned by clouds, rising cliffs at a distance, and otherworldly meadows stretched endlessly that are painted with green grass and ringed by bright white snow. Gosaikunda is a freshwater lake that sits at an altitude of 3,480 m. Even though some maps might tell you that it is over 4000m.

Gosaikunda, while beautiful to tourists, trekkers, is also of great religious significance to the Hindus. They believe that it is a place frequently visited by Lord Shiva and his consort Parvati. Trekking to Gosaikunda takes only a few days from Syabru Besi. It involves crossing the difficult pass of Lauribina La at an altitude of 4,610 m.

All along the trekking trail and especially from Gosaikunda itself you can witness the unforgettable sight of a host of high mountain peaks of the Langtang range, including Langtang and Ganesh Himal. You will have to hike in the footsteps of old traders and pilgrims. The pilgrims had to cross these rolling mountains in search of serenity. And serenity is what you shall find there too!

Gosainkunda

These ten places will always remain a great places to go even being a tourist. But is undoubtedly one of those places where all filmmakers would should go before, during and after the production of their dream projects.

Many thanks for Himalayan Dreamz for wording up the blog.

Check out some of our latest blogs at https://www.filmcrewnepal.com/blog/